Tag Archives: surfing

18-Foot Waves

In 2009 Hurricane Bill aimed its fury at the East Coast. Weatherologists predicted a massive tidal surge from the possible category 4 storm and warned of 15-18 foot waves along the coast. Surfers were ecstatic with this possibility of big-time swells, but I recalled the ‘Perfect Storm’ of October 1991, when the wind-driven tides pushed […]

Surfing in Thailand

I’ve never thought of Thailand as a surfing spot, until seeing the autumn waves on Koh Chang. Growling shorebreak. Some of them had to be rideable and I spotted an ancient surfboard at the nearest hotel. Obviously abandoned, since the deck was wrinkled like a potato chip. First problem. No wax. Undaunted I tucked the board under […]

Monster Wipe-Out

In 1996 Richie Boy flew out to Bali. I met him at the airport. His baggage consisted of a knapsack and three surfboards. “Why so many boards?” “Because one of them is for you.” Richie Boy had come halfway around the world to surf Kuta, Ulu Watu, and G-Land. “Me.” My surfing skills were taxed […]

Monster Wipe-Out

In 1996 Richie Boy flew out to Bali. I met him at the airport. His baggage consisted of a knapsack and three surfboards. “Why so many boards?” “Because one of them is for you.” Richie Boy had come halfway around the world to surf Kuta, Ulu Watu, and G-Land. “Me.” My surfing skills were taxed […]

SPEAKING WITH SEALS by Peter Nolan Smith

August turned hot in San Diego. Floe and I slept outdoors under the stars. Two sleeping bags served as our mattress and a single sheet covered our bodies throughout the night. I told her everything. After recounting the fight with the junkie thieves in Haight-Ashbury, she said, “You scare me.” “Why?” I was telling her […]