Tag Archives: surfing

SPEAKING WITH SEALS by Peter Nolan Smith

January 9, 2014 – 10:04 pm

August turned hot in San Diego. Floe and I slept outdoors under the stars. Two sleeping bags served as our mattress and a single sheet covered our bodies throughout the night. I told her everything. After recounting the fight with the junkie thieves in Haight-Ashbury, she said, “You scare me.” “Why?” I was telling her […]

By Peter | Posted in 70s, California, semi-fiction, youth | Also tagged , , , , , | Comments (0)

Big Big Big

September 24, 2013 – 7:13 pm

Scary as heck. There be dragons. And man will ride them. Surfer Garrett McNamara catches what could be the largest wave ever surfed, off the coast of Nazare, Portugal, on Jan. 29. The estimated 100-foot wave, if confirmed, would beat the current world record of 78 feet, which McNamara has held since 2011. According to […]

By Peter | Posted in myth, Nature | Also tagged , , | Comments (0)

Tubes in Bali

August 28, 2012 – 8:49 pm

Bali 1993. Richie boy and I hired a guide to take us to this spot. The aussie swore it was surfable. We looked at the break. The waves were double-overhead, but we saw coral heads above the water. Richie Boy and I said ‘no go’. The aussie said we were wimps. he took off on […]

By Peter | Posted in 90s, Asia, Travel | Also tagged , , | Comments (0)